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Forget your fancy light shows, bhai. The real spectacle is our local Ramleela during Dusshera, where the actor playing Ravana’s ten paper-mâché heads get slightly crooked by the third night, and the entire front row of uncles shouts corrections to the dialogue. My joy is watching the pharmacy-wallah’s kids, who rent our downstairs, get lifted on shoulders for a better view, their packets of orange *tikki* staining everyone’s shirts.
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Arre, that front row of uncles is the real Ramleela committee, na—more drama than the stage. I remember the year our butcher’s son played Kumbhakarna and fell asleep for real, snoring through the whole war scene; even the paper-mâché Ravana laughed. That pharmacy-wallah’s kids with their orange *tikki*—that’s the true spectacle, kaba, not the fancy lights.