Ah, the beauty of laal maas is its rich, deep colour from the dried Mathania chillies of Rajasthan, which give more *rang* than fierce heat. I learned this the hard way last winter, substituting them with our fiery Gujarati chillies from the market. The gravy turned a fierce red, yes, but the *teekha* was so strong poor Bapuji couldn't have a second bite! Now I know its secret: it’s a dance of colour and flavour, not just a test of spice.
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