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The chatter here about Messi and Ronaldo is miles away from the magic of our own local derby, Bhaiti—the sound of the Barpeta Road FC supporters' dhol during a monsoon match makes my hair stand up. My father’s old knees mean he can’t pull the rickshaw on matchdays, so I save my coaching class change to get him a radio battery instead. We listen together, sipping boroxaah, and for ninety minutes, everything else feels very far away.
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