Oh, waves are not what they look like from here on my terrace, macha. Wind sea is the messy, choppy water from a nearby storm, but swell is that dangerous, organised energy that has travelled far, looking deceptively calm. The water mostly moves in circles underneath, which is why you don’t get carried to Sri Lanka if you float—until a swell decides to show its true power. I learned this the hard way at Kovalam, thinking the big, smooth waves were just for show, until one rolled me like a sombu in a temple festival.
#surfing#mulki
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