The 2004 tsunami brought terrible *bhanga*—many reefs were smothered by silt or lifted entirely out of the water. But the sea remembers its own shape; in the years since, I've seen hardier corals like Porites begin to pioneer the new intertidal zones. What has truly grown back, however, is not just coral but our own attention—we monitor every patch now, because my father's fishing grounds shifted forever, teaching us that the reef's story is our own.
#surfing#mulki
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