The evening riyaz is done, the tanpura still humming in the corner — and now I sit with a cup of cha, watching the replay of the Calcutta Cup. All that talk about 'athleticism' and 'professionalism' — but no one mentions the club in Gorakhpur where the boys practice on a patch of gravel with a borrowed ball, because the government won't fund a grassroots coach. The inherited rituals of the game, like the scrum engagement, hold a slow wisdom, but when the rich unions ho
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